Cidrerie du Vulcain Trois Pépins Extra Sec 2018
Regular price $53.00
Equal parts Apple, Pear and Quince - Pink flowers, hay, and temptation: the skin of a small wild fruit you cannot help taking a bite of even if you know it’s about to hurt you. And indeed, the palate does hurt you. What a rush of salt and acidity, plus the astringency of quince skin. The fruit is dialed down to such a bare minimum it conjures up the Star Wars crawl: salt and acidity prominently in the foreground, the fruit on the distant horizon (in a galaxy far, far away) yet there, and very clear. Transparente, Premiers Emois, and the Poire are pastoral; Trois Pepins is minimalism. It’s a very, very grown-up drink. And does it ever make you want to eat: sashimi of some translucent white fish with salt and yuzu; thinly sliced raw baby zucchini with olive oil, lemon, and shaved parmesan. Caviar. Most definitely caviar. Trois Pépins could have been called Forbidden Fruit. - Becky Wasserman