This would be one of the lighter, finest expressions of the mataro-dominant Efferus I have seen, and syrah and grenache hold around 20% of the wine in 2017 (plus a splash of cinsault). The mataro that makes up the bulk of the wine comes from a tiny plot and old vines.
The first thing you notice, once past the briary, dark berry, anise-tinged, slightly smoky, black olive perfume, is the powdery, translucent feel to the wine. It’s not so much ‘light-on’, as there’s plenty going on in the palate, but ethereal, or something akin to that. It spreads in the palate on a film of dust and brambly-berry flavours, ashen and savoury, drawn very long and leaving barely-there fruit sweetness in its wake. Tannins form a wide sheath and acidity is underlying in a sense of vitality and freshness. It all sounds odd, if you read this straight, but it’s a compelling wine of wild character yet delicacy. Drinking is a charm. - Mike Bennie, The Wine Front