Christian Tschida Himmel auf Erden II Maische Vergoren 2017
The Himmel auf Erden is a skinsy white, but this is Tschida's only proper 'orange' wine (maische vergoren means 'on the skins') – and what a stunner it is. Made mainly from the scheurebe grape (a riesling cross) with the help of some muscat clones. About six weeks total on skins. Overflowing with complexity, like some exotic honey, dried apricot, jasmine and Mediterranean herb concoction that's had an oxidative touch applied. PHWOAR.
Christian Tschida Non Tradition Gruner Veltliner 2015
As the name suggests, not the usual crisp, green apple and vegetal business that gruner usually brings to the table. All the work in the vineyard done by hand, no fining, no filtration and no additions. Some barrels have uncrushed grapes in them still, so the colour is almost pale tangerine and so pretty. Rich and generous in texture, with lemon balm, pear and pineapple and notes of bay leaf and other dried herbs, some honey and a tingly acidity. Non tradition indeed.
Christian Tschida Himmel auf Erden Rosé 2017
A standard-setter in the natural rosé department year after year, Christian's cab franc is something of a work of art for those who value the left-of-centre. Intensely raw, with an air of wild raspberry and other red berries, watermelon, tomato leaf, bunches of herbs and garden soil. There's the fizzing acid of fermentation still persisting, too. Light, yet ferociously savoury and forward. Woof.
Christian Tschida Felsen I 2015
Incredibly expressive blaufrankisch, in an oh-so-natural way. All the work done by hand, no fining, filtering, racking or sulfur. 2 years aged in barrel. No racking. Brooding fellow. Dark red berries, scents of the forest, and deeper influences still - leather, cacao, tobacco and sharpness of herbs. This is a rather serious, meditative thing - moody and funky in equal measure.