Garth Cliff, winemaker-proprietor of Vino Volta, is basically a one man field guide to the amazing, old wine region of Swan Valley. He knows the ancient growers, he knows the best vines. In all this, he sources cleverly and makes wines with a mix of his science based understanding of vinification, alongside working naturally, of course. This is a mellow, supple, dark berried red with cherry cola-like lift and a good dusting of sweet spice, followed by liquorice/anise characters. All that, seamless, brooding but bright. Such a delight to drink, and stylish.