Made by the wunderkind Ryan O’Meara at Express Winemakers in Great Southern, Western Australia, a dab hand with chenin blanc, and here, presenting us with One Of The Drinks Of Sunshiney Days. Zingy, zesty, ballistically drinkable number here. Yuzu meets bruised apples meets brown lime meets faint nuttiness. All happening here. This is a really intriguing, seriously refreshing, brisk and chewy white of texture and wild-edged appeal. That being said, like chenin? Well, this delivers a good hit of the variety in the unfiltered/unfined vein.