Hand-picked fruit from 30-year-old Yarra Valley vines. Whole-bunch pressed to old oak, with six months spent on lees. There's just tremendous concentration and purity of fruit here: scents of yellow citrus, lots of zest and pith, but also the crunch and perfume of ripe green apples and a hint of aniseed. Some crunchy-nut cereal stuff going on, too. In amongst this all, it still clocks in at 11%, and rings with brightness and freshness.