The rather esoteric northern Italian varietal known as lagrein comes to life here courtesy of architect-turned-project-manager-turned-winemaker David Caporaletti. Picked early, a third whole bunch, there's lots to like about this. Deep, brooding and contemplative, full of herbs, dirt and stony minerality painted over with dark red, blue and even black forest fruits. Feisty acidity and gushy mouthfeel. Winner.