From the unheralded wine growing region of Mount Gambier comes this belter of a chardonnay. It's made by a couple of higher profile natural wine dudes too. And while it's cool, like Kit from Nightrider, and a little funky, like Jamiroquai, maybe, it's got stacks of flavour, a core of piercing citrusy acidity and a lick of nutty-savoury yeasty stuff going on. It's right in the zone, is the message. Refreshing and interesting joined at the hip.