Chiavennasca, or nebbiolo, from one of the region’s most exceptional producers. The riserva wines are produced only in exceptional vintages, and this is only the fifth time this has happened. From old vines in a vineyard that’s more than 450 metres above sea level, characterised by soils that seem to be more rock than earth. Patience is the watchword here: 67-day maceration in wooden vats followed by 39 months in a mixture of big barrels, concrete and bottle. Inviting aromas of spice and roses, with alpine herbs and blood orange in tow, and subtle whiffs of leather and pipe tobacco. Intensity and length for days, despite the somewhat deceptive lightness. These wines have become a point of reference of the versatility of nebbiolo. Crack it and you will see why.