Treated very gently in the Blue Mountains winery of Bob Colman and son, this wine rests on lees after natural fermentation, bottled without additives. It’s a heady wine, strong in lemon balm, oatmeal and grilled nut perfume, though a floral whiff and saline notes chime in. The palate is soft yet bright, supple yet holds a lift of salty-mineral character amongst the ripe apple and light cashew nuttiness. The wine finishes savoury. There’s a lot happening here, alongside a lot of drinkability.