This range of wines is produced by the super talented Victorian winemaker Barney Flanders. He has been well known for his Garagistes range of fine pinot noir and chardonnay, but Cotier is a standout project that focuses on orange wines. The best of the Cotier wines is this, the riesling. It’s a tour de force of texture, freshening acidity, complex citrus character, with light savoury notes, and a starburst of energetic green appley tang to finish. The texture is a highlight too – all chewy and powdery and good. It deserves to be drunk not quite cold out of the fridge to allow its best shape to take form.