Call it what you will - the grand poobah, the mac daddy, the top dog - this is the ultimate in skin-contact drinking. Ribolla gialla is aromatic and floral in its own right, but after seven months on skins in amphora it becomes something else entirely. Dried apricots, bergamot, oolong tea, oloroso sherry, baking spice, lightly roasted nuts. The list goes on and on. Tightly wound and full of grip, serious layers of flavour unravel slowly but surely. For best results, decant and enjoy closer to cellar temperature. Divine.