Whooweee. These Primitive wines are so darn good. Nick Jeffrey is the elusive winemaker eking out small batch releases from select vineyards in central Victoria. This textural white does a lot for convincing drinkers of the complexity and expressive nature and potential for Italian white grapes to deliver way more than expected. There’s scents of lemon, quince, brown lime, green apple, whiffs of cider and peanut husk, a range of things going on in perfume. The palate has that delightful, cheery fuzziness to texture before finishing on a wave of chalky pucker and bright, citrusy tang. It’s fresh and yet lightly savoury, layers of flavour rolling long and deep. An unfettered and impressive wine here.