Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Roncagliette 2017
Regular price $144.00
It wasn’t an easy vintage, 2017, hail and heat and a few other things in between. But great producers, with great vineyards invariably make good wines. This wine has a firm signature from both. It’s from 50 something year old vines, tended like a wild kind of garden, appropriately looking down on the plots owned by Gaja; it’s one of the great sites in Barbaresco. Olek is a very good, but terrifying driver. Importer: Giorgio De Maria Fun Wines
There’s not many Barbarescos quite like these offerings from Bondonio, and while they speak of place, they have a kinship, perhaps, with the wines of Foillard for their wild and unfettered beauty, silty tannin, and distinct personality. Less polish. More verity. This is perfumed and earthy, wild mint and aniseed, ripe cherry, damp earth and curry spices. Rich in tannin and tactile grip, freshness with ripe raspberry and strawberry, charisma and chunky length. It feels like vineyard to glass. It’s a wonderful expression of Nebbiolo. The words just tumbled out; it must be good. And it’s pretty good drinking now. - Gary Walsh, The Wine Front