Federico Orsi’s biodynamic farm in the hills outside Bologna is dedicated not to just to grapes. He also grows vegetables, grains and keeps a couple of pigs, which go into his legendary mortadella. This wine is drawn from a big old concrete vat which contains a blend of a little of every vintage back to 2008. The wines have been made in different ways and in different vessels. The majority of the blend is made up of wine from the most recent vintage and the vat is constantly being topped up with young wine to prevent oxidation. What a combination of bright fruit, great acidity and an earthy, savoury character! This screams for a hunk of salami and a good piece of cheese.