The ‘entry level’ pinot noir, albeit it’s the same remarkable, exacting Macedon Ranges site, with vine density from 12,000 to 14,500 vines per hectare. Viticulture and site is the main conversation around the Place Of Changing Winds wines, something the patron, Rob Walters, has instilled in many around him as he has shared knowledge and ideas around the Australian wine community.
This is bony and skeletal, a tongue tugging experience in a fine-grained sheath of tannin, barely there black berry fruit flavours, anise and fennel, malty notes, wet slate rockiness and burr of rough velvet in tannin and texture. Tightly wound, slender in its grumble across the palate, finishes with characteristic bright acidity, amaro-tinged as it feels comes from this site, and a sense of ‘lively minerality’ as I explained the finish to someone standing near me as I was tasting for this note. A reluctant pal, but I admired the tension and restraint. Wait. - The Wine Front