The bottles with ‘the arrows pointing up on them’ are synonymous with wild and unfettered expressions of orange wines/textural white wines but the range has always included some bits and pieces produced with red grapes from the remarkable island of Pantelleria. Again, no missing the expressive nature of the Gabrio Bini wines, but here we see the amazing, light-bodied red grape nerello mascalese from 135-year-old vines though the lens of Serragghia. It’s wild-fermented in amphora, left on skins for seven months, and drinks with delicate yet powerful personality, crunchy texture and flavours and scents reminiscent of sour cherry shot through with wild herbs. It’s an amazing wine, compelling, utterly unique and very rare. This is a statement wine. And so brilliant.