For so long we have associated Gabrio Bini and Serragghia with wines produced from the local white grape variety zibbibo. We’ve loved that kaleidoscope of fresh and sour fruits, herbs, spice and exotic mineral characters, so to step out of that landscape and into Serragghia’s rendition of carignan(o) is quite something else. Named for Gabrio’s son Giotto (they work together on Pantelleria), this is a very special wine from incredible, old (135 year) vines and a singular cuvee that defies definitions of the variety. It is so fragrant, showing a mix of wild herbs, sea spray, dried and fresh berries. The palate is sumptuous but startling with its bright acidity and fine but tight weave of tannins. It’s a total experience. Memorable. And, when the phrase ‘unicorn wine’ gets thrown around so often without qualification, well, here’s one that fits the bill.