VHS is the most inventive and unique wine project in Australia. There, we've said it. Winemaker Sam Smith is a Willy Wonka-like figure in wine, shying away from limelight and producing genius. He blurs the lines of wine, he makes imaginative and wildly delicious drinks with fermented grapes. We love his gear. This is two vintages of gewurz, both skin fermented, blended together, utilising cherry wood smoked and maple smoked wood barrels to lend character. It's highly perfumed and exotic, pretty and yet savoury, it rolls around the tongue with chew and pucker, it's flavoursome and dense but finds crystal-clear acidity and freshness. Orange wine, yes, but something else. So unique, so delicious.