What a remarkable run it has been for Alan and Nelly Cooper of Cobaw Ridge. The couple planted their first vines in the Macedon Ranges 40 years ago and, over the ensuing decades, have slowly but surely cemented their place in the pantheon of not just Victoria’s but Australia’s great vignerons. High altitude, cool climate, and a whole lotta graft and grit in the vineyards – both organic and biodynamic certified, BTW. Chances are they’re your favourite winemaker’s favourite winemakers, unmatched when it comes to their elusive sense of effortlessness and eye for the fine detail.
Just how do these two get it so right, year in and year out? Who knows, but their unerring consistency is something to behold – and it’s on display yet again across their latest release. The 2024 Chardonnay is a more fruit-focused affair than previous years with fresh lime and pink grapefruit leading the charge, set against more soft-spoken chalky, mineral elements. Huge marks for drinkability, too.
Both the Original Block Pinot Noir and High Density Pinot Noir have also returned; the former from the first 1995 plantings and the latter a more recent addition from a (yup!) high-density planting in 2011. Go the OG if you’re after more upfront fruit and aromatics, or the HD for singular exotic character and boatloads of brown spice. Better yet, get both and have a side-by-side sesh for the ages.
In headline-worthy news, the 2024 vintage has brought Syrah back to the fold for the first time in five years…and not a moment too soon. A riveting expression here, medium-bodied yet loaded with black olives, black cherries and a fine balance of meatiness, peppery spice and earthy sweetness. Mamma mia, so much energy and flow. And then, of course, there’s the 2024 Lagrein, which is in ballistic, career-best form: alpine herbs, wild fennel, graphite and choc-cherry in a glassy mineral frame, shaped by firm tannin and a slinky mouthfeel. A dark horse if there was ever one, right up there with Northern Italy’s finest.