And now a lil’ something for the collectors and cult seekers out there, straight from the northern Jura. Etienne Thiebaud founded Domaine des Cavarodes in 2007,when he was in his 20s, having acquired some parcels of old vines (some up to 120 years!) planted to endemic Jura varieties just outside the Arbois. His five hectares also comprise plots within the Arbois, which he converted to organic at the very start. He’s known for his tireless ethic in the vineyard, applying biodynamic treatments in accordance with the lunar calendar and ploughing the land with the help of his horse. Intervention doesn’t get more minimal than this, quite frankly, and demand – unsurprisingly – now drastically exceeds supply. We’ve managed to get our hands on a very select few, so consider it your lucky day.
Domaine des Cavarodes!
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In true Jura fashion, we’ll begin with the always ethereal reds, three of which come from the Lumachelles vineyard just north of Arbois. Reds don’t get much lighter, fine-boned or fresh-feeling than the 2023 Poulsard, which clocks in at a mere 11.5% and slips across the palate, all red fruit, limestone minerality and subtle charcuterie-like funk. For a notch more intensity, look to the 2022 Trousseau, which sports a slightly darker, more brambly complexion albeit with lots of lift. Lots happening in the 2023 Pinot Noir, too, which verges on medium-bodied and weaves violets, cassis and mushroomy character into the cherry-forward frame.
Poulsard and mondeuse join forces in the mega-lean and mouthwaterlingly juicy 2023 Moulin-Neuf Rouge, meanwhile, whereas the 2023 Rouge – Franche-Comté offers a more uniquely comprehensive regional snapshot, comprising trousseau, gamay, poulsard, pinot noir and a raft of other obscure varieties. You want more acid, more ferrous personality, more wild edge? Step right up.
Only two whites up for grabs, but nothing to scoff at! The 2022 Blanc – Cuvé is a gloriously skinsy creature, led by chardonnay but likely with a bit of savagnin and other bits and bobs. Super savoury, with persistent minerality to boot. Roast chicken at the ready. Lastly, the 2023 Chardonnay Lumachelles serves up a slightly more classic slice of the Jura, topped up yet still faintly oxidative, with salinity to burn in amongst the yellow fruit, browning apple and blanched almond flavours.