Foradori

Surely, by now, you know about Foradori, but if for whatever reason you don’t here’s the skinny. Elisabetta Foradori was just 19 when she took over her family’s estate in the mountainous northern Italian commune of Mezzolombardo in 1984. Over the ensuing decades she has cemented herself as something of a living legend, known for her steadfast approach to biodynamic farming, work with amphora and, mostly, for rescuing the obscure red grape variety from the brink of extinction.

The operation may now rest largely in the hands of Elisabetta’s children – fourth-gen winemakers Emilio and Theo and farmer Myrtha – but the wines are as refined as ever. Teroldego is the star player here, of course, seen through the lens of two single vineyards just about one kilometre apart: Sgarzon and Morei. The former is a cooler site with sandy soils, resulting in an uncannily fresh and lifted expression; the latter is composed of pebbly alluvial soil, which is to say denser, plusher, more mouth-filling and mineral-rich. Up at the pointier end, there’s the Granato, a “riserva” teroldego from the estate’s oldest vineyards and one for the collectors and chin-strokers: stewy pomegranate intensity and layer upon layer of warm spices.

This is not to say that the other cuvées aren’t worth seeking out. Fans of a fleshier style should get around the nosiola, an ancient indigenous variety that spends eight months on skins and shows hints of white peach, scrubby herbs and umami savouriness. Finally, there’s a thrilling, grippy, amber-style take on pinot grigio, laced with kirsch, black tea, cranberry and rosewater character. Decanters at the ready!