It's been a hot minute, but at long last there are rumblings in the Champagne fridge. In fact, some might say those are the best kind of rumblings there are. In any event, three producers new to the shop and four cuvées – and all for $136 or less. What a time.
First up, Odile Thiellet, a third-generation grower in the Marne Valley focused solely on pinot meunier. Her 2022 ‘Confidentielle’ is a charmer through and through, creamy and rich albeit with practically zero dosage and a gentle bead. Think whiffs of mille-feuille and hazelnuts shot through with Granny Smith apples, lime zest and tart white fruits. A similar degree of creaminess carries through to the NV ‘Les Coquelicots de Cerseuil’, a blend of pinot meunier and chardonnay from another Marne Valley maker, Champagne Elea. There’s more stone fruit ripeness here, more spice and more briny character and a subtle Amontillado Sherry-esque depth that’s so, so compelling.
Bringing up the rear is yet another Marne Valley vigneron, R. Faivre, founded in 1953 and now in the hands of the third generation. Certified organic fruit grown on just over five hectares of chalky clay and limestone soils. Don’t let the lack of an age statement fool you on the NV L’Aguerrie Reserve Extra Brut – it’s built on a base of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir from 2020 with older reserves added in, and it’s serious stuff indeed. Layers of yellow apples, pears, lemon peel, brioche and an abundance of briny minerality in tow. Chalky, long and very lovely.
For a more distinctive style, look to the 2019 Le Mont Pinson, all pinot meunier from a single site dominated by limestone. Three years on lees creates a very savoury, hugely nutty complexion – toasted cashews, blanched almonds, French toast – but it’s offset by the marine tang of Fino Sherry. Style and finesse in spades.