In only a matter of years, it feels like Josh Cooper has gone from “superstar in the making” to “card-carrying member of the vanguard”, with each new release surrounded by more anticipation and excitement. Not that this should be any sort of surprise, really, given his parents are biodynamic darlings Nelly and Alan Cooper of the indefatigable Cobaw Ridge in Victoria’s Macedon Ranges. He’s chalked up a formidable winemaking CV of his own, too, serving time at Yabby Lake and Tyrrell’s as well as in Chablis, Burgundy and Portugal before launching his eponymous label in 2012.
Spoiler alert: the latest output more than lives up to the hype, proving once again that he – and Central Victorian wine, for that matter – is a force to be reckoned with. New to this year’s line-up is the 2023 Pyren Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, which turns the variety on its head with a more bulked-up character that aims for a sense of opulence and nutty savouriness in amongst all the stone-fruit ripeness, à la François Cotat if you will. It’ll only get better with time. The 2023 Rosé, by contrast, should be opened right now (today even!), for all its wild-strawberry-meets-blood-orange succulence and quiet briny/mineral complexity. Proper stuff, full of personality.
The 2023 Doug’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, a fan favourite, is in very fine shape – sappy and streaked with dark-berry intensity, exotic spice, herbal lift and satiny tannins adding contour around the edges. (One for now, one for the cellar, thanks.) Burgundian pinot, as a segue, is the inspiration behind the 2023 Blanche Barkley Old Vines Shiraz from a cool 1970-planted site, a middleweight expression densely laden with dark red fruit flavour, peppery grunt and liquorice aromatics that nod to the old school. So well done.
That's true of the trio of cabernets, too, kicking off with the 2023 Cab Sauv/Merlot/Cab Franc blend. Styled in the vein of traditional medium-bodied Claret, but as always the case with these it’s so much more – blackcurrants, stewed tomato, some capsicum tang and sage-like leafiness. Chuck it on ice and start slicing the saucisson. Somewhat more serious, the 2023 Dash Farms Cabernet Sauvignon leans right into its lavender and violet perfume, punctuated by jolts of pencil lead, cloves and mint chocolate. Pretty as it gets. The 2023 Pyren Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, another newcomer, takes things in a decidedly deeper direction, all dark cherry and black fruits, tapenade, tobacco and a touch of tomato leaf, which will no doubt unfurl as time goes on. “Please decant well,” says Josh, and you’d do well to listen.