The legendary “nun wines” are back. Yeehaw! From pretty much the day we opened, these have been bona fide shop hall-of-famers. And, in the often unpredictable world of natural wines, they’ve been remarkably consistent performers. There’s every chance you know them all back to front by now, although if for some reason you don’t, it’s something of a brilliantly improbable story.
At the small, agriculturally focused Monastero Suore Cistercensi roughly 70 kilometres northwest of Rome, some 80-odd Sisters of the Cistercian order have been tending five hectares of organic vines on the monastery's grounds for decades. It wasn’t until the early 2000s, however, that their wines became the subject of international attention, thanks to the influence of Giampiero Bea – son of the exalted Umbrian vigneron, Paolo Bea – who continues to oversee the winemaking. The final product is about as honest as it comes, ‘minimal intervention’ in the truest sense, with an earnestness that’s hard to deny.
The 2022 Coenobium – a textural white blend of trebbiano, verdicchio and malvasia, as always – is a standout once again, a layered mesh of orchard fruits, hay, creamed honey and fresh herbs that holds you in its thrall. It’s the sort of wine that always belongs on the table, that seems to have an answer to whatever questions you throw at it.
Its skin-contact counterpart, the 2022 Ruscum – made with the same grapes, macerated for at least two weeks – is typically of the more assertive and serious school of amber wines. This year, it’s notably fresher and livelier than usual, juicy with orange zest, musk, dried apple, garam masala and gingery spice. A perfect foray into the more esoteric and exotic end of the orange wine spectrum
Nowhere near as much attention is lavished on the Benedic – a 50/50 blend of sangiovese and ciliegiolo that stands tall as the only red in the stable – but it really should be. It’s an earthy, medium-weight number that really has it all: red fruits, alpine herbs, sweet spice and a bit of meatiness, with nimbly balanced acidity and tannins. And speaking of having it all, the nuns also produce an otherworldly organic olive oil from five different varieties that’s vividly green, expressive as all get-out and every bit worth the buy-in. Go on, treat yourself!