Not often do we wax lyrical about a single wine, but here’s one that’s worth it and then some (as is pretty much everything Sorrenberg puts out, for that matter). Safe to say pretty much everyone of us at P&V is a card-carrying member of the Sorrenberg fan club, but if you aren’t (yet), then here’s the skinny.
Barry and Jan Morey first planted a handful of classic French grape varieties on their 2.5-hectare property in 1985 and bottled their maiden vintage in 1989. In the decades since, they’ve flown the flag for the blue-chip region of Beechworth in northern Victoria, and set sky-high viticultural standards for their steadfast approach to biodynamic farming, becoming certified by Demeter in 2008.
Year in and year out, these are among the most compelling in the country – serious, complex, structured and even dignified – but there’s something particularly special about the gamay, which has pretty much been the Australian benchmark for the variety since it was first released 35 years ago.
As you’ve probably gathered, the 2023 is no exception to the rule. Some would say it’s a bigger wine this year than it has been, opening rather boldly with splashes of cranberries, currants and Maraschino cherries. Brightness and freshness are very much the bywords, but a light minty character lends it depth and vitality, as does a sprinkle of sweet spice. Tannins are crisp and earthy, and a small addition of pinot noir brings the acid and roundness right into balance. Some time spent bottle will pay dividends, but that’s assuming you’re more patient than we are. Our advice? Buy one for tonight, and one for a few years from now…